Have you ever heard of Ireland’s Púca Festival? I hadn’t until my most recent and disastrous return to Ireland. Thanks to a silver hatchback and a last-minute attempt at salvaging the trip, this festival became a(n eerie) highlight.
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The Trip Where Everything Went Wrong…Until I Found the Púca Festival
Nothing went right when I visited Ireland this past fall. Three days before I arrived, my County Mayo camper van road trip plans fell through. A seasoned traveller, I thought to myself “No problem. I can pivot!”. Unfortunately, the backup plan also fell through. To add to the fun, it was just my luck when the Tesco SIM card I purchased wouldn’t hotspot, adding to the frustration of trying to cobble something together. Accommodations were an additional fiasco, from bouncing around to multiple spots to a bathroom full of mould. One morning when exiting said mouldy spot, an aggressive (presumably unwell) man invaded my personal space. It was not a pleasant start to the day. The list of unfortunate events that week didn’t end there, but you get the gist. I wasn’t having a good time – a first for me in Ireland. (Don’t worry, the story gets better and the Púca Festival plays a part in the trip’s improvement!)
With all of the last minute upheavals, I scrapped my travel plans altogether and decided to stay in Dublin. Needing simplicity, calm, and some sense of control after several unpleasant surprises, I opted for a café work week. I know I’ll explore Mayo another time so the change of trip location was fine. The first glimmer of an upswing shone through when I realized that I’d be in the birthplace of Halloween on October 31st. The wheels started turning. A quick search of festivals and events revealed the 4-day Púca Festival in nearby County Meath. Perfect!
Since I was staying in Dublin and the festival was about an hour away, I turned to Discover Cars for transportation. There were a ton of options and the booking process was easy. I reserved a zippy hatchback and loosely planned the upcoming adventure.
What is Samhain?
Before we answer what the Púca Festival is, why it’s fascinating, and how you can attend, it’s important to understand the festival’s deep historical roots. Stretching back millennia, the ancient Irish Celtic tradition called Samhain (pronounced “sow-in” and meaning “end of summer”) was celebrated each fall after the harvest. This 2,000-year-old pagan ceremony is the inspiration for the Púca Festival and also where modern-day Halloween originates.
The End of the Harvest and the Start of a New Year
The end of the harvest season traditionally fell on October 31st. Samhain marked the beginning of the Celtic New Year on November 1st. At this time, wars were halted, debts settled, and important meetings occurred. Horse- and chariot-racing and parties were also held to distract from daily life.
A Dark Day with the Dead
On Oiche Shamhna, Samhain Day, all fires were put out. Literally and figuratively, it was the darkest and scariest day of the year. The ancient Irish believed that the boundary between the living and “the other side” was at its thinnest on Samhain. This allowed deceased relatives and faeries, like the púca, to intermingle easier than usual with humans.
Somewhat similar to Mexico’s Dia de los Muertos traditions that occur at the same time of year, the dead were front of mind for the Irish. However, feelings about this crossing over differed greatly from the latin celebration. In crossing over, it was believed that these spirits could potentially take the living with them back to the other side. To protect themselves, the living donned disguises to hide from the deceased.
Let There Be Light
The Hill of Tlachtga, today known as the Hill of Ward, is a prehistoric site near the eastern Irish town of Athboy. To honour the new year, an annual ceremonial bonfire was lit on this hill by the druids. From this central flame, every household’s hearth was ignited to greet the winter.
What is the Púca Festival?
As mentioned above, the Púca Festival was born from ancient Samhain rituals. Today the Púca Festival is a 4-day immersive tribute to Irish ancestry, storytelling, comedy, and music. There are concerts, a fire lighting ceremony, a púca procession, comedy shows, mischief making, food and artisan vendors, drag shows, an adult circus, storytelling, ghost walks, and more.
What is a Púca?
Pronounced “pooka”, this dark mythical creature had influence. According to Irish and Celtic folklore, a púca is an unfriendly shapeshifting animal spirit or goblin. It’s often described with dark black fur and feral qualities, appearing as an animal or animalistic human. A remote dweller, the púca’s habitat can be found in rural and remote areas like hills, mountains, and the notorious Irish bogs. Children were taught to fear the púca and warned against eating overripe blackberries lest the púca enter their body. How terrifying! Also written as “pooka”, “puka”, and “phouka”, the creature was said to spread good or bad luck, depending on its mood.
Digging into the etymology a little further, it’s neat to see that “púca” was one of few Old Irish words to be absorbed into Old English (think “Puck” in “A Midsummer’s Night’s Dream”) around the 8th century. The word is tied to cultural significance and not one of practicality or logistical use. For this reason, historians speculate that the Irish and English mixed a fair bit in the early Medieval period. It was also shared into Welsh (pwca), Old Icelandic (púki), Faroese (púki), Norwegian (puke), Old Swedish (puke), and Old Danish (puge), always representing some variation of a devil or devilish spirit. If you’re from any of these European countries and familiar with its use in your language, the linguist in me would love to hear about it!
The word “puka” also has agricultural roots, being used to describe crops left to the faeries post-harvest. A superstitious farmer might intentionally leave “a púca’s share” of crops to appease the spirits and prevent any trickery. During Samhain celebrations, farming communities would don masks and costumes and carve turnips with fearsome faces to confuse and scare spirits away. Although this mischievous faerie is known for its love of pranks, especially on those exiting a pub after a night out, it also protects farmers’ land.
These traditions – costumes, tricks, and carvings – have morphed over centuries and continents. Today people dress up as witty phrases, in couple and family costumes, or as their favourite superhero. Children trick-or-treat in their neighbourhoods collecting candy. And somehow, pumpkin carving and decorating has become an art form. Check out the creative pumpkins below from my visit to the National Botanic Gardens.
What Events are at the Púca Festival?
There are a wide variety of events at the Púca Festival, from family-friendly options to those reserved for adult audiences.
Púca Procession
Púca, Fomorians, and Spirits come together to entertain crowds in the Púca Procession. Fomorians are formidable and grotesque giants who come “from below” and use old magic to create mischief. Is anyone else sensing a dark theme in Irish folklore? The procession is part street performance and part outdoor theatre and 100% not to be missed.
Lighting of the Samhain Fire
Thanks to my car rental, I was able to make it just in time for the Opening Samhain Fire. Ancient texts describe Samhain gatherings past where the ceremonial fire was lit. On the first day of the Púca Festival this ritual occurs to honour the area’s geographical importance, which includes other sacred sites like the Hill of Tara (the seat of the Irish High Kings and where all old roads in Ireland lead), Loughcrew Megalithic Cemetery (also known as the Hills of the Witch), and Uisneach (the Sacred Centre of Ireland), as well as the ancient Tailteann Games.
Concerts, Circus, and Comedy Shows
Originally I planned to attend the opening fire ceremony before driving to Trim for the Kingfishr concert. The indie-folk Irish band has been on repeat on my Spotify for months. Despite good timing, I didn’t end up catching them live. The High Kings were also on my Púca Festival entertainment list. Funnily enough, I won tickets through the Irish Real Life Festival to see them in Canada but had to cancel last minute. I’ll have to wait for a future gig to see them too.
Lucky for me and anyone else who visits Ireland, (great) live music is easy to find. A few bands played at the opening fire ceremony, including the musicians below. They were awesome and kept the crowd moving and entertained. I can’t find their name, so if you’re reading this and know, please email me!
In 2024, comedians like Deirdre O’Kane, DirtBirds, and Neil Delamere gave audiences a laugh.
A really cool part of the Púca Festival is the one-of-a-kind circus shows and workshops. There’s the family-friendly Celtic Circus, Sorcas na Samhna, who performed in Athboy’s big tent. The adult-only Samhain Circus included a mix of burlesque, fire, cabaret, and high-wire acts. Last, learn the art of circus entertainment with skills like juggling and wowing crowds with hoola hoops.
Walking Tours and Storytelling
The Irish are legendary for their storytelling prowess. There’s no better way to experience it firsthand than on a walking tour (or in a pub). With music, púca, and Tlachtga heritage tours, there’s no shortage of festival options to marvel at their skill.
What to Expect at the Púca Festival
It’s free to attend the Púca Festival, however you’ll want to budget for travel items such as accommodation, food, beverages, and transportation.
Costumes
Festival goers are welcome and encouraged to dress up in their best costumes. When I attended the festival’s opening ceremony, people of all ages wore costumes. In the tradition of Samhain, these masked disguises protected humans from the mean-spirited faeries. Under these guises, the faeries were prevented from stealing you or playing tricks on you.
Tickets
Tickets are available on the Púca Festival website. Entry to the Athboy Fair Green is free.
Sustainability
One of the things I love about this Púca Festival, that I didn’t learn until after attending it, is that their goals align with the UN’s Sustainable Development Goals and Fáilte Ireland’s Sustainable Festival Guidelines. Some of the intentional sustainable decisions the festival organizers made was to provide coach buses and eliminate single-use plastic at the festival bars. At the Big Top festival location all drinks are served in reusable containers. A €2 refundable deposit is returned when the container is returned, similar to the Tallinn Christmas Market I attended last year.
When is the Púca Festival?
The Púca Festival happens at the end of October and the beginning of November. In 2024 it was held from October 31st to November 3rd.
Where is the Púca Festival?
The Púca Festival is held in two heritage towns in Ireland’s Ancient East, County Meath: Trim and Athboy. In Trim, a town known for its Norman fortress, the events are held at the Swift Cultural Centre and the Trim Porchfields. In Athboy head to the Fair Green for more local events.
Where is County Meath, Ireland?
County Meath is northeast of County Dublin in Ireland. The festival takes place in two locations – Trim and Athboy, both in County Meath. It’s a little over an hour’s drive from Dublin if you’re not stuck in traffic on the M3.
How to Get to the Púca Festival
The Púca Festival is held in two different cities in County Meath: Trim and Athboy. The castle grounds in Trim set a haunting stage for the festival. In Athboy, head to the Fair Green. I’ve provided information below on 3 ways to get to the festival grounds. A super helpful app and website I like to use for figuring out on-the-ground transportation is Rome2Rio.
By Car
If you’re arriving to the festival by car be prepared to add some time to find parking. In Trim parking is at the Porchfields which is beside the Harvest Market. In Athboy parking can be found on the street, as well as at the Athboy Convent Community Centre.
Those departing from Dublin can take the M3 to N51. If you’re travelling from Galway by car, take the M6 to (N4 to) N52 Westmeath, before exiting onto N51 in Meath. Visitors driving down from Belfast can hop on the A12 before taking several motorways before getting off on the N51.
Renting a car in Ireland is super easy. I used the European company Discover Cars which is a third-party aggregator for car rental companies, similar to Booking.com for accommodation or Get Your Guide for tours and experiences. With partners in over 145 countries, it allows you to compare prices and book directly from the website.
Disclaimer: I received a discount on a rental so that I could try DiscoverCars.com’s services. All opinions are my own.
By Bus
New to the festival in 2024 are designated festival coach buses for people visitors from Dublin, Drogheda, Mullingar, Slane, Navan or, Kells. You can purchase your bus ticket with your festival ticket or later as an add-on through the Púca Festival website. There is also a free shuttle each hour to transport festival goers between Trim and Athboy. How fantastic is that?
For those flying into Dublin or coming from other parts of the country, Bus Éireann is a great choice. Buses run every hour from the Dublin airport to both Trim and Athboy.
By Train
Another solid transportation option includes the train with Irish Rail. It departs every 30 or so minutes which is quite convenient. Get off the train at Enfield Station. From there it’s a 30 minute drive to Trim.
Where to Stay in Trim and Athboy
In Athboy, stay at the Darnley Lodge Hotel, named after the family who owned the town from 1770 to 1909. It’s only a 15-minute walk to the Fair Green in Athboy and with wifi, free parking, packages that include golf or Emerald Park, and the festival’s seal of approval, it’s an excellent option.
In Trim there’s the town’s oldest hotel, Brogan’s Bar & Hotel which was built with stones from Trim Castle. How cool is that? It also has live music and an open fire in its traditional pub. Trim Castle Hotel is a bit larger and has great views of the castle, especially from the Rooftop Garden Terrace.
Another option would be to stay in a nearby town called Navan. It’s a short 15-minute drive from both Trim and Athboy. There, the festival has partnered with The Newgrange Hotel which is named after the World Heritage Newgrange Monument which is also only 15 minutes away.
Why Should You Attend the Púca Festival?
Hibernophiles, historians, Halloween fanatics, and hijinks hobbyists will be bewitched by Ireland’s Púca Festival. It’s a fantastic event for families of all ages, especially those with teens. I would highly suggest attending the Púca Festival if you enjoy unique experiences. For those who seek out spooky celebrations, this Halloween festival in Ireland is definitely your vibe. Another reason you should attend the Púca Festival is if you’re wanting to see more than the pubs and castles in Ireland. There are so many interesting ways to interact with and learn about Ireland’s history and modern-day life by attending their festivals. Another reason to attend is to support festivals and events that strive to reduce their carbon footprint and leave no trace. I could go on and on about reasons to check out the Púca Festival, though I think the most important one is because experiencing something first-hand and creating your own memories is the best way to live life.
Why Shouldn’t You Attend Ireland’s Púca Festival?
If the Otherworld and mean spirits scare you, do not attend Ireland’s Púca Festival. Other than that though, definitely put it on your list of things to see and do in Ireland!
My Review of the Púca Festival in Ireland
If you’ve read this far, I’m curious to know how you stumbled upon this blog post and whether you have already been or are planning to attend the festival. Send me an email and let me know!
In all transparency, I’ve never been a big fan of Halloween. Call me boring or a Debbie downer, but it drove me nuts how over-sexualized it was in university. I also didn’t want to put in much effort or money to find or create a costume. Since then I’ve come around, loving the idea of witty group and couple costumes – plus the accumulation of chocolate and other sweets has always been a selling point.
So how the heck did I end up at the Púca Festival? For one, I wouldn’t call it a Halloween festival. Yes, there are clear ties to the North American traditions I grew up with in Canada. However, I found it authentically Irish from the storytelling to the music to the entertainment. Second, I absolutely love finding unique events to experience. This was 100% in line with that desire. Third, it was the perfect distraction from an otherwise crummy week in one of my favourite countries.
Having only skimmed the surface in 2024, I want to check out more of the Púca Festival in the future. If you’re thinking about it, go and see what it’s like for yourself!
Get a Sneak Peek of the Púca Festival in County Meath, Ireland!
Curious to get a sneak peek of the Púca Festival before you go? Watch this reel from my night at the festival’s fantastic opening ceremonies. Still have questions? Send me a DM on Instagram and I’ll be happy to help where I can.
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